Pet Care Resources: Newsletter

Normal ears of dogs and cats have a relatively smooth inner lining with a minimal amount of wax buildup. Any one of several problems can cause the ear canal to become filled with odoriferous debris. Your pet will probably tell you its ears are uncomfortable by excessive scratching and head shaking. Early treatment of ear problems is important to prevent complications such as damage to the inner ear, long-term infections, and hearing loss.

Ear mites (Otodectes) are a common cause of ear irritation and frequent ear scratching in cats. Ears infected with mites are often filled with dark brown, flaky debris. The mites can sometimes be seen when the debris is examined under a microscope.

Allergies are a common cause of ear irritation in dogs. Allergies can be caused by pollens, molds, plants, fleas, and a variety of other substances. In addition to scratching their ears, dogs with allergies often lick their feet and rub their face.

Trauma to the ear from foreign objects, such as plant seeds or burrs, or from aggressive cleaning with cotton-tipped applicators can also cause pain and inflammation to a pet's ears.

Any of these conditions, if left untreated, can lead to additional and more complicated problems, such as yeast or bacterial infections. These organisms grow best in warm, humid ears that have little air flow. Thus, breeds that have very long or very narrow ear canals, dogs with heavy drooping ears (e.g., cockers), animals that enjoy swimming, and those that live in hot, humid environments will be predisposed to ear infections.

Yeast (Malassezia pachydermatitis), in small amounts, is a normal inhabitant of the ear canal. Inflammation of the ear, from any of the above conditions, allows the yeast to grow in excessive numbers. Yeast-infected ears have a smelly waxy buildup.

Bacterial infections can result in smelly pus-like drainage from the ear and can be extremely painful.

Your veterinarian can examine your pet's ear canals; test a sample of the discharge for bacteria, yeast, or mites and choose the most effective course of treatment. Along with choosing the most effective medication, the treatment must be administered correctly. Your veterinarian can show you the proper way to clean and medicate your pet's ears.

To prevent ear problems, keep your pet's ears clean and dry. It is more important to check your pet's ears regularly for dirt and discharge than it is to clean them. Look in your pet's ears once a week or whenever you are petting him or her. If the ears need cleaning, use only products and methods recommended by your veterinarian. Never clean the ears with a cotton-tipped applicator any deeper than you can see. Pushing the applicator too far down can cause serious internal damage. Finally, if your pet's ears require frequent cleaning, see your veterinarian and treat the cause before complications develop.

For more information on proper ear care, please call our hospital.

Whether you are new to living with cats or a seasoned cat owner, our feline friends insist on presenting an air of mystery. Some of the following tips may be old hat, but others may help you provide an even better home for your cat.

General Tips

• When traveling with your cat, keep him in a carrier. Letting your cat wander free in your car can be dangerous for both of you.
• Feed your cat in a quiet area where he is unlikely to be disturbed. Cats often feel vulnerable while they're eating and appreciate the safety of peace and quiet.
• A timid cat will generally be more social if he is aware of a safe hiding place in every room. A covered cat bed or kitty tent placed in a quiet corner will help him spend less time under the bed and more time out and about.
• The aroma of catnip loses potency over time. To keep your kitty's catnip toys fresh, store them in a plastic container and take them out for a special treat two or three times a week.
• Cats are naturally nocturnal, so training them to sleep when you do may take time. Help your cat learn faster by having a lively, interactive play session right before you go to bed.
• Avoid scratched up furniture by putting double-sided tape on the corners of sofas and chairs. This helps deter your cat from using your furniture as a scratching post.
• Place a sheet of aluminum foil on the kitchen counter or any place you don't want your cat to go. Most cats hate walking on foil and your cat will soon learn which places are off limits.
• Be consistent with house rules right from the start. It makes things much more difficult if you let your kitten jump up on the kitchen table, but expect her to stay off when she grows up.
• Make sure to change your cat's water at least once a day. You don't like to drink water with hair and dust in it, and neither does your cat.
• Cats lose weight the same way we do: eating less and exercising more. Try to spend more time playing with your tubby tabby to help him lose unwanted pounds.
• If your cat is ignoring her scratching post, it may be too short. Cats like to be able to reach up above their heads and anchor their claws for a good stretch, as well as a good scratch.
• Always support your cat's hindquarters when you pick him up. Holding your cat with his paws on your shoulder and your hand under his rump is generally comfortable and safe for both of you.
• Many cats like to picked up and snuggled. Some only like it for a short time though. The instant your cat begins to fuss or struggle, put him down.

Health and Safety

• Cats can get colds, but they are often called upper respiratory bacterial or viral infections. If your cat is coughing, wheezing, or has persistent discharge from her eyes or nose, take her to the veterinarian for a check-up.
• Cats are tough and will often hide signs of illness. If your cat suddenly looks ill, she may have been sick for awhile. Take her to the veterinarian immediately.
• Christmas trees provide hours of fun for cats, but can also cause serious harm. Artificial trees with steel poles provide the safest Christmas tree for cat owners because cats are unable to sink their claws into the steel, making it hard for them to climb.
• House plants can sometimes be toxic. If your cat likes to chew on your plants, grow a pot of grass for him instead! "Cat Grass" kits are available at most pet supply stores.
• Sudden loss of appetite, sudden aggression, excessive thirst or urination, excessive licking, and sudden refusal to use the litter box can all be signs of illness. If you observe any of these symptoms in your cat, see your veterinarian immediately.
• Always check your washer and dryer before you turn them on. Some cats like the warmth and quiet of the dryer and may hop in for a nap.
• Never let your cat drink from the toilet bowl. Even if you don't use "drop-in" cleaners, residue from toilet cleaning products can still make your cat sick. Make a habit of keeping the lid down.
• Clipping your cat's nails regularly is just as good for your cat as it is for your furniture. Excessively long nails can make it difficult for your cat to walk properly and may even grow back into the paw pads, causing discomfort and pain.
• If your cat suddenly starts urinating or defecating outside the litter box, call your veterinarian. Health problems often cause inappropriate elimination.
• A simple way to control hair balls is to brush your cat frequently. The more cat hair on the brush, the less your cat will swallow while grooming.
• Strings, yarn and ribbon may be fun for your cat to play with, but they can be extremely hazardous if swallowed. If left unattended, your cat could become seriously entangled as well. If you enjoy playing with your cat using yarn or string, make sure you have a safe and secure place to store it when you are done.
• Believe it or not, cats can get acne. If you see little pimples on your cat's chin, he may be reacting to plastic dishes. Switch any plastic dishes to stainless steel or ceramic and dab the acne daily with a cotton ball soaked with peroxide until the acne disappears.

Litter Box

• Never put your cat's food near his litter box. Cats like to eliminate far from where they eat. You may find that your cat will alert you to this situation by eliminating in places other than his litter box.
• If you keep your cat's litter box in the bathroom, the steam from showers can make the litter damp. Keep the box uncovered so the litter can dry out quickly.
• The number of litter boxes needed is directly related to the number of cats in the house. A general rule of thumb is to have one more litter box than the number of cats, if space permits. Some cats do not like to share litter boxes; this can cause problems in multiple cat households.
• Once you have found a combination your cats like, do not change it. Cats are creatures of habit and dislike change. Finding a location, litter type, box size is important. Once you find what your cats like, the right combination can keep your cats happy and healthy.

It is perfectly normal for our dogs to engage in a little attention getting behavior from time to time. As longs as the behavior stays within acceptable limits, there is nothing particularly wrong with it. Many times your dog will communicate with you by barking at you, indicating a reason to take notice of him. Also, if you are engrossed in conversation, for example, and your dog paws at your leg to solicit your attention, it would not be inappropriate. What you must remember is that your dog quickly learns which behaviors work and which ones do not according to how you respond. That being said, it is necessary to set reasonable boundaries from which your dog can learn which behaviors are acceptable to you.

There are a number of ways a dog can look for attention. The most common actions are barking, whining, gagging (or actual vomiting), feigning lameness (limping), jumping, and pawing. Keep in mind that some dogs go above and beyond if they think their behavior will be rewarded with attention, so this list may seem fairly tame. It is important to note what your reaction is to certain behaviors in order to determine which one your dog has employed to get your attention. If you ignore your dog when he barks but yell and/or touch him when he jumps, you are more likely encouraging him to jump whereas his barking is a normal communication.

The main principle involved in treating attention seeking behaviors is to ignore the behavior. It is not a fast acting solution but one that generally produces the best results. In fact, the behavior may get worse or even more intense, before it eventually fades away. Keep in mind that if you give in intermittently or after a lengthy period of trying to "tough it out" before the behavior has been squelched, you will reinforce the behavior more firmly. Your dog will learn that if he keeps it up, the attention he wants will eventually come his way.

Another way to solve the problem is to use a "bridging stimulus." A bridging stimulus is a neutral sign (or cue) that brings about a particular consequence (i.e. it forms a "bridge" between a behavior and a consequence). It could be a duck call or a tuning fork, or the sound of striking a note on a piano. The noise is sounded at the time the dog is engaging in the unwanted behavior to signal the owner's imminent withdrawal of attention, perhaps even leaving the room. What the bridging stimulus does is to focus the dog's attention on that point in time when attention withdrawal is about to happen. It is not intended to be aversive but rather a consistent signal. The specific behavior should dissolve more consistently and rapidly if a bridging stimulus is used rather than if attention withdrawal is employed without such a signal.

If your dog is still performing the same behaviors after employing the above mentioned strategies, there could be other factors involved. It is possible that your dog is not receiving ANY attention or he is spending too much time alone or in a crate. It may be that he is getting insufficient exercise or mental stimulation. Excess energy could also be an issue. It is extremely important to address these issues as well rather than just trying to stop the dog from bothering you. It could be that YOUR expectations are not conducive to normal dog behavior and care. Some questions you may ask yourself are:

• Does my dog get enough exercise? The minimum is 20-30 minutes of aerobic exercise daily.
• Is my dog eating a sensible diet?
• Is my level of communication with my dog adequate? Have I trained my dog? You should be striving for 85% responsiveness to a one word command such as sit, down, come, watch, etc.
• Is my dog being rewarded with my attention (petting, praise, etc) when he is doing something I like? If not, begin indicating my approval of desired behaviors.
• Does my dog have a "job?" For certain breeds having a job or something to focus attention regularly helps curb unwanted behavior. Retrieving the paper every day or accessing his food is an example.

The bottom line is that dogs need attention. What you give your attention to (whether good or bad) generally teaches the dog how to achieve that attention through certain behaviors. As an owner, it is your responsibility to let your dog know which behaviors are acceptable and which ones are not. Any behavior can be reinforced. It is up to you to decide what kind of relationship you want with your dog.

Birds and Light

Like most living creatures, birds need light for good health and survival. In fact, compared to most other animals, birds are probably affected most profoundly by changes in light. Aside from the affect on the colors they see, light has a tremendous influence on their growth, metabolism, reproduction, and behavior.

Calcium is one of the most important minerals to a bird's overall health and development. Calcium promotes strong bones as well as the maintenance of many physiological functions. Like humans, birds can suffer life crippling fractures without calcium. Unfortunately, calcium cannot be absorbed by the intestines, nor can its level be regulated, without the presence of vitamin D3. This vital vitamin can be obtained either through the diet or via a process in the skin known as synthesis. The process of synthesis requires ultraviolet radiation of a specific wavelength. The most common source of this radiation is, of course, sunlight. Since normal window glass filters out essential ultraviolet radiation, light coming in through a window cannot stimulate the production of vitamin D3 in your bird's body. So, in a nutshell, your bird needs sunlight, or full spectrum artificial light, for his body to absorb calcium.

Reproductive systems (i.e. egg production, development of gonads, etc.) and sexual behavior are also affected by light. Egg production can be increased by artificially creating longer periods of light, which simulates natural seasonal reproduction cycles. Altering light in a cyclic pattern can also affect sexual development; and interfere with sexual performance. The timing of the reproductive cycle is governed by the length of the daylight hours - longer days stimulate reproductive organs and sexual behavior. In most species, the breeding season actually ends while daylight hours are increasing.

Light contributes to a bird's natural process of molting. In their natural habitat, birds will usually molt twice a year. While some birds will molt continuously at a low level, most will molt in a definitive pattern by dropping feathers on the left side of the body that correlate with dropped ones on the right side. This helps them avoid the inability to fly at any given time. Molting can be identified by the presence of blood feathers, new feathers with an active blood supply that replace dropped feathers. Poor lighting or lack of light can cause deformed or inadequate growth of new feathers, leaving your bird with an unhealthy appearance and, potentially, an inability to fly. Since molting often occurs prior to and after the breeding season, birds without proper light absorption will not look attractive to a mate, therefore affecting sexual behavior and reproduction. Light is needed for flaunting plumage in order for males to attract females. This particular behavior is tied closely to molting, and if the highly ritualized displays and subsequent courtships are adversely affected, birds would be unable to mate and reproduce.

Your bird's behavior is also affected by light. Intensity of light dictates the time at which birds go to roost and when they emerge in the morning. Diurnal species depend on daytime light intensity to accomplish foraging and hunting. If deprived from light, a bird's normal behavior patterns are skewed and potentially harmful to the health of the bird.

While it's not feasible to keep your feathered friend outdoors in some climates, this does not diminish the importance of light. As an alternative, full-spectrum artificial lights have been developed to simulate natural sunlight. These lights provide the full-color and balanced ultraviolet spectrum of natural outdoor light, at a reasonable cost. The most popular type is Vita-Lite, a general purpose florescent lamp which can be purchased at most hardware stores. Changing the bulbs routinely every two years ensures maximum effectiveness.

Since there are numerous individual variations in avian responses to light, it is only possible to give a general and broad explanation of the importance of light to birds. Natural habitats and regions dictate how much light is needed for good health, as well as the species of your bird. In order to fully appreciate the beauty of your bird, remain diligent in finding the best possible light source. While there are many available options, it is possible, with the help of your veterinarian or local pet store, to find the right solution to your bird's light needs.

People have a wide range of attitudes about getting older, from optimism to pessimism. But when it comes to pets, people tend to have a negative attitude about aging. The tragedy of getting old is that we attribute the problems pets face to old age, and don't bring them to the veterinarian. Most owners think that pets can't be helped if it's just old age.

There are a series of physical changes affecting aging pets' bodies. These may include graying of the muzzle, thinning of the coat, brittle toenails, arthritis and lameness, whitening of eyes (cataracts), difficulty hearing and dental problems.

Pets entering their golden years face two types of changes--those that can be relieved with the help of a veterinarian, and those that cannot. Veterinarians can prescribe medication to ease the pain of arthritis and even perform surgery to replace painful hips. Veterinarians don't have means to treat deafness; however, surgery can cure cataracts. There is also medication that can be prescribed to alter mental status, making older pets act less senile.

With aging, there are also behavioral and mental changes that take place. Older animals have more difficulty getting around. They lose self-confidence and tend to stay close to their owners and close to home. Fear of strangers and new surroundings may be more pronounced in an older pet.

Older dogs and cats usually sleep more, pay less attention and don't tolerate the cold weather as well as they did when they were young. The aging process begins and ends differently for each animal. It's just like humans. There are people in their 70s that appear young and there are people in their 60s that appear old. On the average, though, small dogs and cats begin to exhibit signs of aging at 9 to 10 years old, while large dog breeds begin to age at about 7 years of age.

Owners need to prepare themselves mentally as their pets undergo the aging process. Emphasis should be placed on quality of life. This means that owners should have their older pets examined by a veterinarian. Annual (or even semi-annual) veterinary examinations are recommended. This way, a potentially serious problem can be diagnosed (when it is still minor) and a treatment can be provided that may slow the progression of the ailment and, if possible, cure it. When we age, we know when or when not to exercise, but with pets, it's not that simple.

Some pet owners try to avoid the fact, but a pet won't be around forever. As a pet ages, it's best to accept the process and try to provide him (or her) with a good quality of life. Accept the fact that your pet may die, or you won't be able to let go when it's time.

When a pet is very old and has severe medical problems, an owner must confront the decision of putting him (or her) to sleep. Many owners have a common misconception on this topic. People always hope their pets will die peacefully in their sleep, but this rarely happens. Very often owners wait too long and the pet incurs too much pain and suffering. When an animal loses bowel control or can't move its legs, owners should interpret these signs and make the appropriate choice.

Making the decision to euthanize a pet that has been a member of the family is never easy. Owners need to know that it is the final step in the human - pet relationship. Putting an animal to sleep is the last act of love from a good owner.

There is no doubt that when times are tough, families bond together to make the best of the situation. And, sometimes a new cute and fuzzy four legged family member can help make rough times more bearable! Whether you choose a purebred kitten from a breeder or an adorable mixed breed puppy from a rescue group, there are a few things you will want to know to keep your new friend happy and healthy. Watch this video to learn how our furry companions actually relieve stress and bring joy to their homes!

1. Golden Retriever: The sun is shining, the day is young, we've got our whole lives ahead of us and you're inside worrying about a burned out bulb?

2. Border Collie: Just one. And then I'll replace any wiring that's not up to code.

3. Dachshund: You know I can't reach that lamp!

4. Rottweiler: Make me.

5. Boxer: Who cares? I can still play with my squeaky toys in the dark.

6. Lab: Oh, me, me!!!!! Pleeeeeeeeeze let me change the light bulb! Can I? Can I? Huh? Huh? Huh? Can I? Pleeeeeeeeeze, please, please, please!

7. German Shepherd: I'll change it as soon as I've led these people from the dark, check to make sure I haven't missed any, and make just one more perimeter patrol to see that no one has tried to take advantage of the situation.

8. Jack Russell Terrier: I'll just pop it in while I'm bouncing off the walls and furniture.

9. Old English Sheep Dog: Light bulb? I'm sorry, but I don't see a light bulb!

10. Cocker Spaniel: Why change it? I can still pee on the carpet in the dark.

11. Chihuahua: Yo quiero Taco Bulb. Or, "We don't need no light bulb."

12. Greyhound: It isn't moving. Who cares?

13. Australian Shepherd: First, I'll put all the light bulbs in a little circle...

14. Poodle: I'll just blow in the border collie's ear and he'll do it. By the time he finishes rewiring the house, my nails will be dry.

How Many Cats Does It Take To Change A Light Bulb?

Cats do not change light bulbs. People change light bulbs. So, the real question is:

"How long will it be before I can expect some light, some dinner, and a massage?"

ALL OF WHICH PROVES, ONCE AGAIN, THAT WHILE DOGS HAVE MASTERS, CATS HAVE STAFF!